Kowloon. It's a name that conjures up choking tropical heat,
dense neon lights, chaotic crowds of people, exotic street food,
pick-pockets, purveyors of fake watches and tailor-made suits. And it's all
those. The assault of sights, sounds and smells on the Kowloon pavements is
something that still excites me after visiting dozens of times, usually with
the excitement of children emphasising the buzz.
Like most global cities, Kowloon hosts a set of museums to occupy the curious minds of children. Unlike the museums of most global cities, the Hong Kong science museum is so hands on throughout that its hard to leave. From a set of tricky logical puzzles and a mirror maze in the basement, through exhibitions on architecture, environment, sound, and on up to the transport section at the top with working engines to fire up, and Cathay Pacific's first plane hanging from the roof. Running top to bottom in the central atrium is a spectacular ball run which releases a set of balls every hour through a three-dimensional maze of pivoting beams, spirals and drops. If we are struggling to work out why Chinese children are so much better at maths and science than western ones, this isn't a bad place to start.
On the same site is the Hong Kong museum of History. Less hands on, but a well presented and interesting story nonetheless, it takes visitors from the early tribes settling on the flatter land, through colonial oppression and war, and economic development. It concludes with a slightly terrifying waxwork of Mrs Thatcher handing over the territory to Deng Xiao-Ping, followed by an optimistic view of the future of Hong Kong within a greater China.
Stretching North from the Museums are the craziest sets of markets, which amuse kids and parents alike; both beautiful but sickening at the same time. The bird market in particular has stunning brightly coloured creatures crammed into tiny cages with an impossible number of other birds. Onto the pet fish and reptile markets, where our children reliably plead with us to buy them some form of oversized lizards. Then around the corner to the flower market, where the splendour of the tropical flowers that bloom naturally in the heat of South East Asia make Columbia Road look quite drab. Finishing up in the dense crowds of Mong Kok, the most densely populated region in the world, but known to regular visitors as the ideal place to buy the latest electronics, generally cheaper than at home. Suddenly the familiar pressure to buy ipads for the whole family appears, so perhaps this bit is best avoided.
Like most global cities, Kowloon hosts a set of museums to occupy the curious minds of children. Unlike the museums of most global cities, the Hong Kong science museum is so hands on throughout that its hard to leave. From a set of tricky logical puzzles and a mirror maze in the basement, through exhibitions on architecture, environment, sound, and on up to the transport section at the top with working engines to fire up, and Cathay Pacific's first plane hanging from the roof. Running top to bottom in the central atrium is a spectacular ball run which releases a set of balls every hour through a three-dimensional maze of pivoting beams, spirals and drops. If we are struggling to work out why Chinese children are so much better at maths and science than western ones, this isn't a bad place to start.
On the same site is the Hong Kong museum of History. Less hands on, but a well presented and interesting story nonetheless, it takes visitors from the early tribes settling on the flatter land, through colonial oppression and war, and economic development. It concludes with a slightly terrifying waxwork of Mrs Thatcher handing over the territory to Deng Xiao-Ping, followed by an optimistic view of the future of Hong Kong within a greater China.
Stretching North from the Museums are the craziest sets of markets, which amuse kids and parents alike; both beautiful but sickening at the same time. The bird market in particular has stunning brightly coloured creatures crammed into tiny cages with an impossible number of other birds. Onto the pet fish and reptile markets, where our children reliably plead with us to buy them some form of oversized lizards. Then around the corner to the flower market, where the splendour of the tropical flowers that bloom naturally in the heat of South East Asia make Columbia Road look quite drab. Finishing up in the dense crowds of Mong Kok, the most densely populated region in the world, but known to regular visitors as the ideal place to buy the latest electronics, generally cheaper than at home. Suddenly the familiar pressure to buy ipads for the whole family appears, so perhaps this bit is best avoided.
Around the Southern tip of Kowloon
is the Tsim Sha Tsui, more popularly known simply as TST. Here are the bright
neon lights in Chinese and English that are instantly familiar from films and
pictures of the City. Its worth a stroll through Kowloon Park, a strange oasis
of peace and tropical birds built on the sight of the previously crime-infested
but self-governing Kowloon Walled City. The shock of then being plunged into
the hectic noisy chaos of Nathan Road is all the more intense from here.
Personally I prefer to navigate around rather than through the dozens of
shopping centres clustered in this area, however the sheer scale of the Harbour
City shops could make it a day out in itself. Aside from the welcoming Air
Conditioning, the basement dedicated to childrens clothes and toys – covering
the scale from Dior Kids to Toys R Us, will please some in the party. The top
floor dedicated to electronics stores will please others. However you might
struggle to squeeze a 60 inch TV into your suitcase if that appeals.
The final piece is a stroll along
the waterfront itself, along the Avenue of the Stars, where you can pose
alongside statues of Cantonese and International film stars. You may of course
need to queue to model your Kung-Fu pose next to Bruce Lee, or simply
photograph everyone else doing that for you. The walk takes you past plenty of
other air-conditioned diversions; yet another amazing shopping centre in the
Former Marine Police Headquarters Compound complete with unusually
sympathetically restored colonial buildings, the Space Museum, and the
Peninsular Hotel with its fleet of green Rolls Royce Phantoms and surprisingly
accessible baby-changing facilities. All of this whilst presenting a
spectacular view across the harbour to Hong Kong Island itself, only £2 away
for a family of four by Star Ferry.
Hong Kong is an amazing destination. But to me, the buzzing life and chaotic activity of Kowloon is the most exciting part of it.
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