I do like France. I know the language well enough to avoid
starvation, but badly enough to feel I am somewhere foreign and exotic. You can
smell the croissants the moment you leave your apartment to hit the
Patisserie-Boulangerie. Provence has the added benefits of a splendid
combination of chic glamour and an efficient subsidised public transport
network.
Like two of our earlier trips to the region (see https://bigsummerholiday.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/cannes-with-one-baby-may-2003.html)
we rented an apartment in Cannes within walking distance of the sea and the
railway line. On this occasion we took the bus direct from Nice Airport, which
was cheap and quick, and dropped us 5 minutes walk from the flat. Unlike our
earlier trips, the children were now carrying their own luggage rather than us
carrying the children and all the luggage!
I mention the railway because whilst Cannes itself is
lovely, the trips out along the coastal line stop at no end of places well
worthy of a visit. The stunning beaches and coves of St Juan les Pins,
Villefranche and Beaulieu, the towns of Nice and St Raphael, the WaterPark at
Biot are all just an air-conditioned ride away. However, we had a little
mission in mind on this trip. Changing for a bus at Cagnes-sur-Mer, we
were carried into the mountains to the idyllic setting of Vence. Our
destination was the the Rosaire Chapel, designed by Henri Matisse and suddenly
well known in London following the creation of a replica version in the Tate
Modern to accompany an exhibition of the colourful “cut-outs” associated with
him and the Chapel. The chapel is beautiful, and well worth the walk with
children in tow to see how the sunshine filters through the stained glass
“Cut-out” windows to splash the interior with colour. There is a fairly lengthy
talk about the chapel construction, which is best missed with children for the
exhibition beneath it bi-lingually explaining the construction and art within.
The coach trips then rock on to the scenic St Paul de Vence, but if your
priority is Ice Cream and Snacks, Vence itself is much less touristy. We had a
very pleasant afternoon strolling through the narrow streets and shaded
squares, breezing into the occasional shop and cafe, before returning to Cannes
for the evening.
A little further on the train passes through Monaco, and
this has to be a highlight of a trip to the area. The station itself, hollowed
out of the mountain and glamorously lined with marble, is a worthy introduction
to the ludicrously expensive theme of Monte-Carlo. The wealth on display around
the streets is marvellous or obscene depending on your point of view. One of
the children was delighted to spot a second hand Airbus A320 private jet
offered for EUR 20 million in the window of a ship and estate agent. Traffic
jams of Ferraris of Ferraris delighted the kids, the diamonds and handbags
flaunted on the streets reminded Mrs _H of some of her poor life choices. Aside
from strolling the quayside and people watching (a low-cost activity that can
be enjoyed from any pavement bench in the principality), it’s the Palace that
provides most entertainment. The climb up the steps is quite hard work, but the
palace itself is almost Disneyesque in its shiny white cleanliness and pretty
steepled towers. Yet this is a living, working building, albeit one maintained
by a very wealthy family. The tour of the palace is quite interesting, the
audio devices enabling us to do it at the kind of pace that avoided children
being bored. But the better attraction with children is the aquarium a few
streets away. Whilst this lacks the vast shark tanks and Perspex tunnels of
more modern rivals, the family all seemed to love the small scale of it, the
format of the presentations and the collections of marine memorabilia founded
by the Royal Family. It also presents outstanding views across the
Mediterranean from its position on the corner of the rock.
Which brings me back to the theme of the seaside, and
especially the beaches of Cannes. This part of Provence has huge stretches of
sandy beaches, varying in culture from crowded to quietish; flanked by designer
boutique to the occasional ice-cream seller; exposed and open to secluded
coves; touristy to locals. One delight of Cannes is that the extremely
glamorous but crowded beach along La Croisette (see my 2003 and 2006 blogs) is
contrasted with a much quieter beach just the other side of the old port and
castle. This is the beach used by the locals, with a few small snack bars to
keep nourished, and the shady “Square Mistral” across the road to provide a
playground and shade. The castle-topped hill, itself worth a climb for a look
around, shields this part of the coast from the hoards around the corner,
keeping it from the hoards nearer the centre of town. Life is also noticeable
cheaper this side of town; there is much better value to be had in a café here
than in the more touristy joints around La Croisette.
Lots of people have their favourite part of France, and this
is ours. Like anywhere else in France,
the food and wine are excellent. However
this is the only region that we’ve returned to as a family three times, and
there are reasons for that. The travel is convenient, the exploring is
efficient, and the people-watching is outstanding; this area more than any
other has that je ne sais quoi.
